Back

Friday, June 20

  More Ferguson TE20 wiring and stuff

by Engineer on Fri 20 Jun 2008 16:06 BST

good afternoon people its me Jeff again.

Well its been one of them ,days electrics , half shafts , bonnet infills ,

the wiring is about done on the Ferguson TE20 Ive wired in the trailer sockets and fitted the back plate to

the dash board and put the tank and bonnet back on here you go have a look at some pictures,

this is how the whole thing looks now

and with lights on

even the dash lights work

any way these are a few of the other bits , this is the spot light on top of the roll cage

I had to fit a new switch coz the standard one was a bit dead , and this is the main connector box ,Ive still

got a bit to do here

I think it all looks OK , ho the back plate on the dash I nearly forgot

a bit of paint and it will all look sweet , right change of subject remember that P3 dash infill namely the bit

the nice chap across the water sent in ,this bit

well I fixed it to more hammering , heat ,and sheet steel first you do this

then a bit of cutting and shutting and welding and you have one of these

Ive left metal on the side I did see he can cut it to match his bonnet , so there you go two infills

and Ive also done a half shaft, and made another set of Ferguson harness clips , and now I'm off home ,I THINK!!!

by Engineer on Thu 19 Jun 2008 10:22 BST

 

nbsp; Wiring Hamish the Ferguson TE20

by Engineer on Tue 17 Jun 2008 16:05 BST

Me Jeff again.

Wiring is never the easiest of things to do ,it always looks straight forward but never is ,

Ive been wiring up Hamish the Ferguson TE20 and making it rat proof , that means feeding the wires through

copper and flexi /steel pipes , when it came to the Engineer1 the wiring was a complete mess

and not the stuff coming out the copper pipe,

as you can see most of the wires where red, all very strange

but I will soon have it sorted, Ive been pulling wires through bits of pipe and found a novel way of getting

the wires through with a MiG welder

this pipe goes over the roll cage and carries the indicator and spot light wires

and fitted to the Ferguson Te20 tractor

then I made the fender pipes and fitted the junction box

from the back

and a quick test of the rear end lights showed all was OK

on the front end Ive put in a seven pin connector so if the bonnet as to come off at any time you just unplug it

the starter and battery leads are covered to

Ive still got a bit to do so keep watching

 

Thursday, June 12

  Ferguson P3 Bonnet infill

by Engineer on Thu 12 Jun 2008 15:52 BST

I got asked a question the other day, it was can i make a bonnet infill for a P3 Ferguson conversion,

he said that he had a bit of one so I got him to send it in a few days later it turned up

just over half of it remaining, ah ho , I had a word with a engineering friend of mine who said it would

cost about 4 and a half grand to have the press tools made up to do them with, I just said Ive got a hammer, he said

I know and laughed,

Anyway I set  about finding out about these infills and it turns out they are all different some had them some didn't

some just had a bit of bent flat bar with a couple of holes in it some just had a plate welded on to the top of the

standard dash the one I had to make was abit more complicated than the others the bottom of this plate

copy's the top of the dash and 3 inch up on the plate you have a new top of the dash

all very confusing anyway I came up with a plan and set to work with a nice bit of 1.5mm sheet steel, some heat and

a hammer bending and shaping steel is all good fun  lots of hammering and hot metal

the first bit was easy then things started to get a bit harder folding the metal back the other way and getting it to

go round corners , heat ,hammer, heat, hammer,

it  was starting to take shape up to now this is still one sheet of steel welcome to old school  met/fab

yes this is hard work and yes I had fun making some thing it turns out are like gold dust to get your hands on

As you can see its nearly done just a bit of fine tuning to do now

yes a rare sight me with a little hammer, so when you have all done laughing check this out

good I think, like i said Ive just got a few bits to do on it now,

this is what it should look like on the tractor, have a look at this link http://www.fergy.com.au/p3.html to see

what a good p3 ferguson looks like,

 

Monday, June 9

  The answers half shafts

by Engineer on Mon 09 Jun 2008 12:01 BST

Me , Jeff

 Remember I said there was a problem !

right you can have two things happen with half shafts , (1) when people put
them back together they do not drive the bearings on to there seats and make sure
the shrink fit collars are tight against the bearing this making the shafts to
short, Or someone has changed one of the half shafts for some reason ,IE, when the shafts are bolted back in you cannot take up the slack, the wheel bearing are loose,
IL will leave that one there for a moment and go to number (2)

when all the bearing are on properly and you fit the shafts do not fully tighten
them down , just nip them up (IF) when you turn one end the other goes in the same direction
you will have to fit shims,


 To create a small gap between the two shafts normally around 10 thou
trial and error if you don't have a way of measuring the gap, and don't forget
there is 4 gaskets to take into account two for each side or three if shims are fitted


 back to No 1 see half shafts are adjustable at both ends shims one end
and the hardened caps the other see pictures below note the different thickness

right bolt in the shafts remembering to fit the gaskets tighten one side right down,
the gaskets will full compress, yes gaskets change thickness,
now fit the other side the same
,then check end float by pulling the shaft backwards and forwards
then set one side right in and fit drop gauge and set to zero, then go round to the other side
and slowly press in the shaft till it stops then go and read the gauge
so you now have a size now
lets say the gap is 50 thou now remove the shaft and remove the hardened steel head,
stick it in a vice and twist the shaft till it comes free some can be a pain in the backside if they have spun in the past, now what to do these heads come
in all different sizes ( voice changed to 40-50 chap in #99ccff coat with clip board )
 These are normally set by the chaps working on the production lines at the Ferguson works
in Coventry, anyway you can do this, the easy way fit a hardened steel washer behind it (the right size of course)
and refit by centre dotting the hole just 4 dots will do about a mill from the edge

it don't matter if they creep into the hole its just to ensure a tight fit


and pop the head back in with a copper hammer, or the hard way find the right size head
cats and hell come to mind , anyway Ive sorted mine there all done,

 So there you go half shafts

PS.  The reason there where no gaskets fitted, I think someone was trying to take up a bit of slack in the bearings

or they just plain forgot ,Ha Ho

Friday, June 6

  Hamish`s Halfshaft problems

by Engineer on Fri 06 Jun 2008 13:15 BST

Hello again its me again Jeff

Half shafts , oil leaks , bearing kits , seals, today i stripped out Hamish's running gear

and got a bit of a shock apart from finding only one gasket  yes one gasket from both half shafts ,

this is the one in the left picture

and this the one in the right

that wasn't the only reason oil was leaking out I found that the collars which are normal heated to about 400c or the colour of the setting sun, arrrr..... that sounds much better, anyway they were not on properly they were way out have a look at the picture below 8 mm out and the low one is not on properly ither, and to top it off a broken stud

so folks off with the old collars and bearings and on with the new, an average height for the collars is 129mm

when the shafts are standing like this, anyway seals and bearings in and on and there you go

and yes i have fitted gaskets which Engineer has kindly knocked up for me check these out there a bit good

a bit thicker than the standard ones you get because the casting are a bit ruff

now all ive got to do is put it back together and there we go and a quick check

problem ! I will explain on monday and how i plan to sort it , keep the lack of gaskets in mind

 

Thursday, June 5

  Hamish's Oil Leak

by Engineer on Thu 05 Jun 2008 11:29 BST


Hamish was manoeuvered onto Atlas this morning- its unbelievable how small a space a TE20 can operate in!)
Amongst a load of other little problems is the persistent oil leak at the front end. 

 (Jeffs bit) the oil was coming from behind the timing chain cover back plate,

 the ali block seal insert was twisted and one edge was standing proud and when the back plate was bolted down it bent the plate over the edge creating a gap which the gasket could not cover

,ie one realy good oil leak, any way with a bit of weight i got the back plate stright , made a new gasket which is thicker than a standard one and is reassembled it. Hamish's timing chain cover is now back on , the engine has been run and there is now no oil leak

click the pic below

All good fun

 

Wednesday, June 4

  TVO Radiator on a diesel

by Engineer on Wed 04 Jun 2008 16:02 BST

Hello its me again Jeff

I had some fun to day fitting a TVO rad to a diesel sounds simple till you try it ,this is what you will see

as you can see alinement is a bit of a problem

well  this is what i came up with just a bit of plate some pipe and some welding

looks better in some grey paint

at least the bottom hose was easyer just a quick bend

looks all fine and dandy

And a visitor today dropped in for a rest and a quick tour , a bite to eat and went off on its way

A racer