March 2012  
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Diesel finished & TVO Crank fitting
Engineers Play Time,
Spring Start up
R,I.P. JESS 30.3.2012

 

March little update

 

So whats been going on , well weve had a few more tractors in , one which came in for a job estimate is now not being done , it is a sorry state , after a good inspection it turned out a little bit more work than the owner exspected , it needs everything doing to it , a total rebuild , even the distribitor needs rebuilding , 65thou of movement on the shaft , thats a lot more than the points gap ,when you turn the engine over the cam just moves aside and the points dont even open ,it also needs a crank grind , big ends ,pistons rings , liners , a head skim , valves and seats , and so on ,

Poor little tractor , mind you this is how i would want one to get one if i wanted one , just because when youve done it, you know its been done , some people pay 3and a half grand of a so called restored one thats just really a paint job and new tyres , then they find its a bag of worms inside , I call it the magpie affect , unless its been done by me like this one below ,

this is it when it came in

and now after a proper rebuild it looks like this , and yes there are still two bits missing out of the front grill , this is not a restoration you understand , besides all the little dents and bump give it a bit of sole , and personaly i think the blokes right it keeps it real , i like all the little knocks showing , makes it proper ,

and her it is

its been propley sorted

its now a new TEF20 good for another 60 years ,

and now for another tractor , this one is just in for a setup job after working its nuts off for the last 18 months , dragging a 5 foot topper up and down 20% gradent fields , besides other things , yes this one works for a living , in fact i had to go to this chaps smallholding to set it up on his hill side fields , they where hard enough to walk up never mind pull a bloody 5 foot topper up , so timing

all checked , just needed a miner adjustment , cleaned the carb out and checked the linkages

done tappets

still as clean as the day i did them

and a govenor tweek the govenor on this tractor is so good and set up that well it can make the clutch slip , ho and i made a little adjustment on his hydraulics , sweet as a nut again,

and now a little job on a TED20 carb , the little arm that the choke rod connects to had worn and broke away ,

this bit

simple job strip out the carb and fit another bit

whatch out when your removing the two little screws that hold the butterfly , make sure the screw driver is a really good fit , and be careful not to rip the screw heads off ,or you will be in allsorts of trouble,

and all done

make sure you wind the springs the right way to when you put it back together ,

 

 

So folks the TEF Diesel is finished and ready to go home on Friday , Its been run around and tested and looks and sound lovely

see very sweet

I will remind you this is not a restoration , all its little bumps and knocks are there , its history if you like , I do like um this way , they seem to look more real , if i was judging a show one like this would win , not being funny but ive seen some of these show winners , the hell polished out of um , this that and the other on it , someones got to say this these tractors were work horses , and at one time the backbone of the country , i was going to look at a fergi at the Headington and stockley show this was a while back ,and as i walked up to it , i spotted a stainless allen bolts on it from 25 yards , i felt like finding the owner and slapping his leg and sending him to the foot of them stairs , I did laugh , anyway I found a proper one to look at and take pictures of

Wow .......... And in that Classic Ferguson brown ( rust ) thats class Sweeeeetttt.......

Thats what i call Original , WINNER , BEST IN SHOW , see im not easy to please ,

 

So what else have I been up to ,

Have you ever wondered where that oil comes from under your tractor , you know about in the middle , well it comes out of the two little holes in the bottom of your clutch bell housing , this normaly means one of two seals have died , the first is the rear crankshaft seal , which means your main bearing are dieing and the crank has dropped and left a gap in the top of the seal ,

the other is the main input shaft on the gear box ,

see the tube the main shaft run through , the bit the thrust bearing mounts on , well in the other end of that tube is a seal , the normal give away is when your clutch pressure plate housing looks like this

the oil throw on the edge , right what you do is remove clutch pedal ,11/16 nut and bolt , then disconnect the two springs holding the thrust bearing and remove it , now remove the two split pins from the two castle nuts that hold the thrust arms block to the shaft ,remove screws and then draw out the shaft, now right in the back you wil see the 4 -5/8 bolts , by the way some have 11/16 bolts, and then remove the tube ,

then pull the main shaft out of the tube

look in the back of the tube and there you go , the seal ....

Im far to good to you lot , Change seal put it all back together , you lot down in Aussie , put ya tinnes down chuck another polatition on the barbie , put ya feet back up and reach for ya tinnie , relax you can sort it later .

What else ho yer TVO Crank shafts , simple job , fitting that is ,

clean block out check all oiways are clear , an air line does this really well , AND DONT STAND OVER THE BLOCK WHEN YOU DO IT , do it at arms lengh , and wear a hat ha ha ha ha , just in case ther is some oil left in the gallerys ,

clean journals and fit new main shells , then a nice blob of clean grease on each one , and then lay the crank in the block ,

now get your new thrust washers , you want the two that havent got the little tab sticking out ,

these go down the sides in the middle main bearing housing , when there in you need a magnetic dial gadge , you need a min of 5 thou of end float on the crank and max 8 thou , if to tight use 1000 wet and dry , and just give them a little scrub and re try , REMEMBER ONCE THE METAL IS SCRUBBED OFF YOU CARNT PUT IT BACK ON TAKE YOUR TIME , so when youve got them two right put the shell in the top housing clamp , bit of grease on the shell and some on the sides to this will hold the thrust washer in place then do the same as you did to the bottom two ,

that all done now go to the rear main bearing housing , get one of the half moon plates and fit it loosely , now warm the rear seal up in some hot water , dry it and grease the inside , now feed it down the slot where it lives , so the join will be at the top when the engine is the right way up . now just bring the half moon plate just up to the seal with the bolts , then just tighten it up till you see the seal just sit nice in its seat , now get the top housing , fit seal and grease , get felt strip cut it in half fit to either side of clamp , fit half moon loosely , and fit , put the two 11/16 bolts in the clamp and just nip um up , now look at the outer face of the block where the two half moons are see if , the top clamp and the block are flush , if not , you will need a little copper hammer , and with just gental taps line the faces up , this is right by the half moons.this helps keep the seal all in line ,if you think im joking , take the crank out and refit the rear clamp and just look how far you can get the inner faces out of line just on the bolts , anyway now tighten half moons and away .

now for the front one this ones simple , fit shell , grease , fit bolts nip up 11/16 bolts not tight , remember torque wrench 90 to 100 ft/lds set for 95 mid limit , when youve done that fit the corks in the little alloy bridge block , nip up the two screws tap it to flush with the front face of the block and tighten up the screws ,

well done, go have a cupper . and while your doing that il just sneek the front plate on

whistle little tune

la la lar and all that

set crank shaft timing marks , key way to the bottom means pistons 1 and 4 are at the top

slot in the push rods in No4s followers , thay should just rock when i move the cam tells me No 1 is at the top to fire , fit cam chain wheel , tighten bolts , inch up lock tabs , done ,

Ho your back , .... I said a cup of tea not a kip ,

Moving on a few pics of a starter motor thats had a few repairs in the past by the look of it , anyway this is the state the main shaft came out in ,

seems the collar had split in the past and been brazed

looked ok tho no cracks .

so then i set it up in the lathe and sorted out the other end

thats better , sorted the brushes and bearing , and its all well again ....

 

back to the top

 

 

This is something i use to do from my past over 25 years ago, when I could pick one string out with ease ,and now ive had to learn a whole different way of playing as one of my finger tips can cover three strings ,It kind of makes things a bit harder , Engineering does kind of trash your hands , anyway its not brilliant and Im still quite rusty , this wasent easy ,

this is for my wonderful misses Suzanne

Just click on the picture ,

 

Update ........ Spring start up

Right first an answer to an email , I just made it up as i went along its more fun than just copying someone else , and yes i set the amp (Zoom 12 ) up to make the guitar sound like that , ( Pevey Predator , yes a real made in the USA one ,mid 80s) ,

Right Tractors ,

Loads of people are having starter motor problems , seems a lot of people are just getting there Ferguson Tractors out after the winter , So heres a tip , unless you have a TEF20 you lot just put your batterys on charge , and relax ,

You petrol and TVO men , get out the tools , just a few things to do to save your self some time

Start put battery on charge , then.....

1 whip out the plugs and give um a brush up

2 whip the distribitor cap and give the contacts in the top of the cap a clean and the rotar arm

3 clean and check points gap

4 stick some fresh petrol in the tank

5 drain carb , via little tap on the float bowl , and clean bowl on the fuel tap , then open tap on the carb , turn on petrol till fuel starts to come out of the drain on the carb then close little tap on float bowl

get charged up battery and try to start tractor .

DO NOT USE EASY START , IT TRASHES YOUR MOTOR ,

anyway ive got yet another starter motor to sort out , this one spat its dummie out , in a strangefashion , look what ended up in the bell housing

Ive never seen one do that before

these are the bits out of the bell housing

this is what the motor looked like

yep its a sorry state , the worse bit is because the bush came out the shaft dropped and did its best to wear away the windings in the motor housing

it made a right mess of the brushes too

it also trashed the bearing in the brush end of the caseing too , poor thing , this is one of the reasons why you check everything first , your starter motor normally only runs for a few seconds , they really dont like it when your winding over and over for ages ,

if theirs gas in the tank and a spark at the plugs it should go , if it dont whip out a plug and see if its wet , if not your carbs blocked , if there soaked leve the choke off open the throttle 1/2 way , and have a go , what this does is drop the vacume through the carb , so more air gets to the fuel already in the pots , its an old 2 stroke trick , them bloody thing aways flood up ,

 

Right what else , the Z120 I did the other year is back in for its first big service , it gave me chacne to fine tune that trick dynamo mount i made as a couple of the measurements the owner gave me where just a bit out , so thats all done

the first bolt on the left is an adjuster to angle the mount off the tractor , the other two let you adjust it forwards and backwards , to line the pulleys up spot on , remember the tractor was 140 miles away , so the mount had to be fully adjustable ,

and it works .....

the tractor has been split and the clutch checked ,

as the chap likes his ploughing , it will also have its , timing , govenor , points , dizzy bearingings , tappets , oils , wheel bearings , brakes , and so on done , more on that lot later ,

John your tractors about done mate , the motors sweet , your hydraulics as in pump and valves are ok , needed an oil change , the reason they dident work was the lift arms where rusted solid , that rusted the pressure relife valve was opening ,

I had to drill a 5 mm hole in the top to get the WD40 in , on both sides , they will be tapped and grease nipples fitted ,

whoops done

 

so its nearly done ,

right folks more soon ,

 

 

 

Back to the top

 

 

Jess.

Yesterday At 4 pm on the 30.3.2012 Jess fell asleep ,

Jess there are no amount of words that could explain our love and feelings for you , So we would like to say a big thank you to you for all the love and joy you bought in to our lives with these pictures , You will always be in our hearts, run free special friend,

Lots of love, Suzanne , David , Rachel , Jamie , Jeff

Jess, Photos